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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.